Egypt

What amazing things are happening in Egypt. In May, 2009, I was privileged to be on a Lindblad Expeditions trip that included the Suez Canal, Cairo, and Alexandria. We boarded the National Geographic Endeavour at the south end of the Suez Canal and joined a parade of ships steaming north. Part way through the canal, the ship was stopped and the captain informed that an "extra fee" was required to proceed. We had already paid a hefty sum to traverse the canal. Luckily on board was a retired American ambassador, who called a friend in Washington, D.C., who then called someone in Cairo, and soon we were on our way.

In Alexandria, a similar incident occurred when we told that the ship could not leave the harbor. But more phone calls were made and off we went.

While touring the cities, it was a little disconcerting to have armed guards on the buses and armed vehicles in front and behind us. But one of the highlights for me was a visit to the New Library of Alexandria built atop the site of the legendary Ancient Library, which was destroyed in 642 AD during the Muslim Conquest. The new library, opened in 2002, is a futuristic 11-story structure designed by Snohetta, an international group of architects based in Norway. We witnessed a machine that could digitize a book in a few minutes and visited a reading room where up to 2000 people could be seated. The room was bustling with students doing homework (and probably checking their Facebook pages) at dozens of computer terminals.

Near the end of our visit to Alexandria, Massimo Bassano, the National Geographic photographer traveling with us, asked the local guides if the more "serious" photographers could walk the last mile or so back to the harbor. The guides did not like this idea but Massimo persisted; and finally, about 10 of us with our big, expensive cameras dangling around our necks were let off.

Massimo immediately headed up an alley teeming with people. We were obliged to follow. Stern faces stared at us. One man wagged his finger and shouted, "No photos!" But then someone asked me, "Canadian?" I timidly replied, "No, American." Suddenly the locals began to shout, "Obama! Obama!" Smiles spread across those dark faces and hands were thrust out with thumbs up. What a relief! Everybody wanted their pictures taken and soon a parade of men, women and children were following us.

And now it's goodbye to Mubarak. Other dictators? Beware. Exciting, remarkable times.